Carrots are curling: what to do, folk methods of struggle

This happens in life when, once again getting ready to cook your favorite soup or any other dish that cannot do without the presence of carrots, you open the refrigerator and take out the orange ingredient, and it turns out to be soft and flexible, to the envy of all acrobats. It is very difficult to cut carrots in this state, but it is generally advisable to remain silent about the grater. What to do in this situation?

Surely you are aware that almost all plants contain a lot of water, and our beautiful carrots, of course, are no exception, which is why, being in the refrigerator for a long time, it loses moisture and becomes indecently soft and lethargic.

I suggest you do this, put the carrots in water and you will be surprised at how firm and fresh they will be the next day. The carrots will absorb all the water, restore their former shape and become quite suitable for cooking.

Adding an article to a new collection

Growing carrots in open ground is often accompanied by mistakes that lead to disease or even death of the entire crop. We have identified 6 problems and invite you to solve them using effective methods.

Growing carrots is quite simple, but even with such an unpretentious crop, difficulties sometimes arise. If the aboveground part of the plant is in order, this does not mean that the root crop itself is developing normally. Therefore, it is worth carefully monitoring the ridges, but the most important thing is to take preventive measures. So, let's look at the main growing problems that gardeners face.

Problem 1. Carrots are rotten

Fungal diseases of carrots are visible to the naked eye. Root vegetables are covered in spots, smell unpleasant and, of course, are not suitable for food. Such plants need to be destroyed because they can contaminate the soil and other root crops with fungal spores.

Under no circumstances should carrots with slight signs of rot be stored in the hope that they will dry out. The root vegetable will continue to spoil and contaminate healthy vegetables.

Causes of rot damage:

cold and wet weather;
lack of potassium;
harvesting in rainy weather;
high humidity in the room where carrots are stored.

The characteristics of some rots are presented in the tables.

Black rot (Alternaria blight)
The leaves turn black, and dark spots with mold appear on the root crop. After a while, the carrots become covered with dense black rot. The disease is seed-transmitted and often results in blackleg disease.

Scab (rhizoctoniosis)
Root vegetables are covered with sores of various shapes. The mycelium of the mushrooms is white or light brown in color.

White rot (sclerotinia)
Carrots are soft, crumbly and watery. Sometimes it is covered with a coating similar to cotton wool, on which large growths later appear.

Wet rot (bacteriosis)
The root crop has a putrid odor, although it may be intact on the outside. Then the carrots become covered with dark spots. The tissue decomposes into a watery mass teeming with bacteria.

Brown rot (fomoz)
The first signs are spots and transverse stripes on the top. Then dark spots appear on root crops, ulcers and white rot. When cut, the tissue is soft and loose, and the mycelium is visible.

If carrots are susceptible to rot, it is important to carry out the following preventive measures next year:

treat the seeds before sowing;
make the soil fertile, reduce acidity;
change the place where carrots are grown, it is advisable to plant them after mustard, rye, oats or rapeseed;
thin out the crops in time so that the plants grow fully and do not get sick;
water the plants regularly, do not dry out or over-wet the beds;
avoid nitrogen fertilizing, use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers;
treat the plants with Bordeaux mixture a month before harvest.

To keep the crop longer, you need to harvest it on a dry day. Treat boxes and pallets with disinfectants. Dry the root vegetables thoroughly and sort out any damaged ones.

How to properly store carrots: 18 useful tips

Preserving a carrot harvest is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Of course, many of us have had to throw away rotten carrots from time to time and clean the refrigerator from the terrible smell. Some even concluded that carrots store very poorly. The conclusion is completely wrong: if vegetables rot and wither, it means you simply don’t know how to store them.

Especially for those who like to enjoy fresh carrots, I have prepared 18 useful tips.

1. Sort. Or sort it out. In general, do whatever you want, but only store root vegetables of the highest quality, without damage, rot, wormholes, etc. Remember - one rotten carrot can ruin a couple of kilograms of vegetables in a week. And even more.

2. Don't wash. Even if you really want to. Dried soil can be carefully shaken off the root crops. If that doesn’t work, let them be stored in their “pristine” form. Wash before use.

3. Select a suitable place to store carrots in advance. This needs to be done before the problem in the form of two or three bags of vegetables appears in your kitchen. Never store vegetables in a hurry!

4. Immediately after harvesting, cut off the carrot tops. Otherwise, it will draw some of the moisture from the root crops during drying. It is best to trim carrot tops in two stages: - first, the leaves are cut just above the head of the root crop, - then the “head” is cut off completely together at the growth point, and the cut should be even and smooth.

5. Do not break off or tear off the tops - there is a risk of damaging the root crop itself. The most annoying thing is that you may not even notice it, and you will lose your harvest. So be careful and trim the tops as carefully as possible.

6. It is very important to choose root vegetables in a timely manner; be guided by the color of the tops: if the lower leaves have turned yellow, you can remove them. Remove the carrots from the ground carefully, being careful not to touch them with the shovel. Use cut root vegetables immediately; they are not suitable for storage.

7. The following advice is suitable for avid summer residents or owners of private houses with vegetable gardens. When harvesting, leave some fruit in the soil. Cut off the tops completely. Cover the soil with film and sprinkle sawdust and dry leaves on top. Lay down roofing material or a layer of polyethylene, secure it around the edges with something heavy. Carrots will overwinter well.

8. To ensure that root vegetables remain juicy for a long time, they should not be watered the day before harvesting. Do this 2 weeks before the expected harvest - pour water well between the rows, wait until it is absorbed and fill again. And after 2 weeks, remove the juicy and sweet carrots.

9. It is recommended to keep the root crops dug out of the ground at a temperature of 10-14 °C for 7-10 days. Before harvesting carrots into storage, they are inspected and sorted again. It is recommended to keep the vegetables in a cool place the day before storing them (temperatures up to 5-6 degrees Celsius are allowed).

10. The best place to store carrots is a dry room with a temperature of +10...+12 degrees and a humidity of 90-95%. A room that is too warm is not suitable: moisture will evaporate from the carrots and the root vegetables will wither. It is known that normally 16 g of moisture is released from 1 ton of carrots during storage.

11. An excellent way to preserve root vegetables is to put them in the cellar. If, of course, you have one. The main thing is that the cellar should not freeze in winter, and root crops will need to be protected from excessive air humidity and damage by pests.

12. Storing carrots in sand is very popular among summer residents who have cool cellars, crawl spaces, and garage pits. Sand reduces the evaporation of moisture from carrots, prevents the development of putrefactive diseases, and ensures a constant temperature - all this contributes to the excellent shelf life of root crops.

13. Sand must be damp for storage. For the purpose of moistening, use one liter of water for each bucket of sand. Then the prepared sand is poured onto the bottom of the box in a layer of 3-5 cm, after which the carrots are laid so that the root vegetables do not come into contact with each other. The carrots are covered with a layer of sand, and then the next layer is laid out.

14. Sawdust from coniferous trees is another excellent filler for boxes of carrots intended for long-term storage. The phytoncides contained in the needles prevent the germination of root crops and prevent the penetration of pathogenic fungi and bacteria.

15. How to store carrots in an apartment where there is no basement or cellar, and where there is nowhere to put boxes with sand or sawdust? A balcony is suitable, but provided that it is glazed. Place the prepared root vegetables in a box and cover them with something thick, such as an old blanket.

16. Carrot harvest can also be stored under the bed. Arrange the vegetables in one layer and sprinkle with onion skins. The root crops should not touch each other. Of course, alternative storage methods require preliminary preparation of vegetables - they must be dried, sorted, and the tops trimmed.

17. A great way to store juicy orange root vegetables is in the freezer. Wash the fruits, peel and grate on a coarse grater. Place the grated carrots in plastic bags and place in the freezer. Of course, this preparation is not suitable for all dishes, but it can be added to soup or stew.

18. Try storing your carrot harvest in more than one way. For example, send half of it to the cellar, leave a little in the ground, grind some and freeze it. By doing this, be sure: even if one of the options does not justify itself, most of the root crops will be saved until spring.

Author: Angelina Beauty

Problem 3: Carrots have an ugly shape.

Do carrots not look like themselves, branching and intricately intertwined? The problem is incorrect agricultural technology! It is possible that fresh manure and nitrogen fertilizers were added during the formation of the root crop. Or the soil suffered from drought and was then flooded for several days. Another reason is heavy rocky soil, which does not allow carrots to develop normally. All this leads to strange shapes of root vegetables.

This vegetable is edible and rarely loses its taste, but it is not easy to preserve it for the winter. To prevent problems, do not apply fresh manure before planting, adjust watering. And most importantly, make the soil fertile.

Problem 4: Carrots are covered in “hair”

In fact, these are not hairs, but suction roots that grow over the entire surface of the root crop. This vegetable can be eaten, it does not lose its nutritional and taste properties, but it is difficult to store. The causes of “hairiness” are low-quality soil and irregular watering. As soon as you return the soil to fertile qualities, the carrots will become smooth again.

To prevent carrots from becoming “hairy,” it is important to provide the plants with regular loosening, which improves air exchange.

Problem 5. The carrot was attacked by a carrot fly

If a carrot fly appears on the site, you can forget about a good harvest. Root crops become tasteless; there are many passages in them where fly larvae live. Affected plants can be distinguished by the purple-red hue of the leaves, which then turn yellow and dry out.

The carrot varieties most often affected by the fly are Nantes, Karotel, and Chanson. The varieties and hybrids that are most resistant to the pest are Calgary F1, Perfectsiya, Olympus, Nantik Resistafly F1.

It is not easy to fight the pest, because the fly multiplies throughout the entire summer season, and in the fall it often remains inside the root crops and ends up in storage boxes. To keep the carrot fly away from your area, follow these rules:

always prepare the seeds for planting: to do this, soak them in warm water for 2 hours, wrap them in linen cloth, then in a bag and store them in the refrigerator for 10 days; dry thoroughly before planting;
plant carrots as early as possible, taking into account the weather, and not too densely;
Dandelion and clover attract carrot flies, so control weeds;
regularly loosen the soil between the rows, watering it first;
Weed the plants carefully, do not leave any excess on the beds, so as not to attract flies, but put them in compost.

If possible, plant garlic or onions next to the carrots; they will repel the carrot fly. And marigolds and calendula will attract natural enemies of flies and thereby protect your plantings. Among the folk remedies, a mixture of tobacco dust and sand (1:1) has worked well, which needs to be sprinkled on the soil between the rows 2-3 times a season.

The carrot fly also parasitizes celery, parsley and dill.

How to properly thin carrots, two stages of thinning

First thinning

As soon as the height of the seedlings has reached 2 cm, and their first two leaves have appeared, we proceed to primary thinning:

We water the ridges, but not abundantly, but lightly, using a sprayer. Weakened plants will be easier to remove from the soil without damaging neighboring shoots.
We pull out weak carrots, leaving a distance between seedlings of at least 1.5 and no more than 3 cm. We pull vertically, and not to the side - with our hands or tweezers, as is more convenient. We remove it correctly, without tugging sharply, but carefully pulling it out of the ground, otherwise the roots of the remaining carrots will be damaged. That is why dense shoots of carrots and radishes must be thinned out correctly.
In addition to the defective sprouts, we eliminate the weeds that have appeared by this time so that they do not interfere with the normal development of the remaining plants.
Having broken through the plantings, water the carrots with a sprayer again.
We compact the soil around the seedlings to prevent pests from laying eggs in loose, soft soil.
We loosen the rows.

Attention! Inexperienced gardeners regarding how to properly thin out carrots argue that it is better not to pull out the seedlings, but to cut off the stems with leaves, leaving the roots in the ground. This opinion is erroneous: if mass thinning occurs, the remaining roots of the trimmed plants will rot and infect healthy carrots left for harvest with diseases.

But the torn out seedlings with the roots preserved can be planted in a new bed: some of them will certainly survive and produce healthy root crops, only a little smaller in size.

Second thinning

How to thin carrots a second time?

We break through the carrot seedlings for the second time when their height is at least 10 cm - after about 3-4 weeks. We also water the ridges with a sprayer and thin out the plants, as the first time, but now we leave a distance between them of 6-7 cm. We complete the procedure by watering, compacting the soil around the carrots and loosening.

When to thin carrots for the second time

We send the torn plants into compost - they are not suitable for planting in a new bed, as they will not be able to take root. Be sure to sprinkle them with soil so as not to breed pests such as carrot flies attracted by essential oils.

Now it’s clear how to properly thin out carrots, when to thin out and what to do with removed seedlings. Procedures carried out on time contribute to the production of large, even and healthy root crops suitable for long-term storage.

Main causes of rotting

The first reasons that carrots become flabby are excessive waterlogging, non-compliance with crop rotation, excess nitrogen in the soil, and contaminated seeds.

Excess moisture

Due to the large amount of moisture, cracks of different sizes appear on root crops. Fungal diseases begin to develop in them, and this leads to the fact that the carrots may wilt. It is also undesirable for the cultivation of this vegetable to be close to groundwater, which inhibits development. To combat this problem, it is necessary to establish the correct watering regime and ensure that the soil in the carrot beds does not become waterlogged.

During the formation of root crops, watering should be increased, and 2-3 weeks before harvesting, it should be stopped altogether. Carrots should be sown in areas with deep groundwater.

Failure to comply with crop rotation

Correct crop rotation plays an important role in the cultivation of carrots, since failure to comply with it depletes the land, resulting in a significant reduction in the size and quality of the crop. Crop rotation means that root crops can be grown in one place only after 4–5 years. Carrots are good to plant next to onions, tomatoes, legumes, but not after parsley, beets, celery, radishes, and preferably after cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic, strawberries.

Excess nitrogen in the soil

With an increased nitrogen content in the soil, root crops accumulate nitrates, are more susceptible to diseases and are poorly preserved. Therefore, gardeners advise using complex fertilizers and diluting them in a lower concentration than indicated in the instructions.

Infected planting material

Diseases such as black rot, bacteriosis, and cercospora are transmitted through infected seeds. For the purpose of prevention, it is advisable to disinfect the seeds using a light solution of potassium permanganate, or the Rovral fungicide (1 g of powder per 1 liter of water).

Why do carrots become soft in the ground?

Carrots become flabby due to waterlogging of the soil, excess nitrogen, the use of contaminated planting material, and violation of crop rotation rules.

Poor planting material

The quality of seeds prepared for planting determines the future harvest. To prevent its loss, the following is recommended:

Immediately before sowing, disinfect the seeds using a weak solution of potassium permanganate or Rovral fungicide, diluted with water in a ratio of 1 g per 1 liter. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the carrots will develop cercospora blight, bacteriosis or black rot.
Choose planting material taking into account its shelf life, otherwise the chance of full germination and development will decrease.

Medium-sized carrot varieties ripen much faster than large ones.

Improper watering

Most often, carrots wither due to non-compliance with the watering regime. Excess moisture contributes to the appearance of cracks in root crops, in which the fungus multiplies. Growing this crop in an area with close groundwater is also undesirable, since the plant will lag in growth.

In dry weather at a temperature of +18...+23°C, carrots are watered 2 times a month. The amount of water used depends on the phase of the growing season:

6 liters per 1 m² – before the first thinning;
10 liters per 1 m² – up to the second;
12-15 liters per 1 m² – during the period of active development.

In conditions of high humidity and rain, the frequency of watering is reduced, and film tunnels are created to avoid waterlogging of the soil. On hot days with temperatures above +28°C, the soil is moistened more often, but the amount of water is not increased. In this case, the need for watering is usually indicated by a dry crust formed on the surface. On average, the procedure is carried out every 2-3 days, after which the root crops are hilled.

Important! Watering is stopped 20 days before harvest.

Errors in crop rotation

Correct crop rotation plays an important role in growing carrots. Failure to comply with it leads to soil depletion and a significant decrease in crop yields. It is allowed to grow this vegetable on one plot no earlier than after 5 years. Carrots are recommended for planting near the following crops:

onion;
legumes;
tomato.

It is undesirable to do this in the place where they grew:

radish;
parsley;
celery;
beet.

Ideal predecessors for carrots:

strawberry;
cabbage;
garlic;
onion;
potato.

Excess fertilizer

Excessive feeding leads to a number of problems:

slow development of root crops as a result of intensive growth of tops;
deformation;
cracking;
pest damage;
gradual withering.

An increased nitrogen content in the soil leads to the accumulation of nitrates, which negatively affects the shelf life of root crops. In this regard, it is best to use complex formulations diluted in a lower concentration than recommended in the instructions. Due to a lack of nutrients, carrot tops turn yellow, the stems become thinner, and the root crop becomes lethargic.

To ensure full development of the crop, phosphorus and potassium are added to the soil, and during the ripening period, boron, iron and manganese are added. A lack of micronutrients, as well as their excess, inhibits the growth, development and contributes to the withering of root crops. To solve this problem, preparations containing a mineral and vitamin complex are added to the soil:

"Epin";
potassium humate;
"Crystalon";
"Effecton".

Such fertilizers are especially relevant for depleted soils, clays, loams and sandstones.

Important! Possible causes of root crop wilting include alkaline soil and increased acidity levels.

Optimal pH=5.5-6.5. When the acidity increases, slaked lime or chalk is used, and when there is an excess of alkali, boric acid is used. Only neutral soil is suitable for carrots.

Diseases and pests that cause carrots to become soft

Of all carrot diseases, fungal diseases are the most dangerous. The most common of them:

Bacterial soft rot - darkening and wilting of leaves, the appearance of mucus on the tops, softness of roots, the presence of a putrid odor. The disease quickly spreads to healthy specimens.
White rot - softening and wateriness of carrots, the formation of a white coating.
Fusarium rot is the appearance of ulcers and cracks on root crops followed by their withering.
Powdery mildew - lethargy of carrots, blackening and curling of leaves.
Mosaic - the tops acquire yellow and gray-green shades.

Some diseases are spread by harmful insects, so vegetables are treated with fungicides and insecticides for preventive purposes. The preparations are applied to the soil during autumn preparation and before sowing. Weeding and loosening can reduce the likelihood of pest attacks on the future harvest. To prevent the spread of fungal infection, several means are used:

"Alirin";
"Topaz";
iodine or ash solution.

In addition to diseases, insects cause damage to the crop:

In the spring, the carrot fly leaves a clutch of eggs at the base of the stems. The hatched larvae cause significant damage to root crops, making them unsuitable for consumption. Insect control measures include autumn digging of beds, timely elimination of weeds and treatment with Actellik and Intavir.
Aphids create large colonies that produce several generations during one growing season. In order to destroy it, the beds after harvesting are thoroughly cleared of tops and dug deep before winter.
The mole cricket is capable of destroying up to 80% of carrots. The pest is controlled using Medvetox or dry chrysanthemums and marigolds poured into the holes.
The wireworm makes numerous passages in root crops. Prevention involves deep digging of the soil, compliance with crop rotation, and the use of chicken manure, ammonium nitrate or the drug “Bazudin” (10 g/10 m²) for treatment.

There are a number of popular measures aimed at protecting carrots:

treatment of storage rooms with a solution of bleach or sulfur bombs;
whitewashing the shelving in the basement with lime;
adding potassium chloride, humus and superphosphate to the soil before sowing;
treatment of seed material with a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
use of the products “Gamair”, “Trichodermin”, “Immunocytophyte”.

When choosing a carrot variety for planting, you should give preference to rot-resistant varieties.

Important! When storing carrots, it is important to provide suitable conditions for this - humidity from 85 to 90% and air temperature from 0°C to -2°C.

Diseases and pests that lead to rotting

Diseases and pests that cause damage to root crops include rot, carrot fly, aphids, mole crickets, nematodes, etc.

Diseases

Diseases caused by various fungi pose a great danger to maintaining the integrity of the vegetable.

Bacterial soft rot

This disease begins to appear in the garden and consists of the following symptoms::

the leaves wither and darken, mucus appears on the tops;
root vegetables become soft from the inside, emitting an unpleasant putrid odor, although they may still be intact on top;
dark spots appear, quickly increasing in size;
easily transferred to healthy root crops.

White rot

Most common among other diseases.

It is provoked by a fungus that manifests itself during the ripening of the vegetable and is characterized by the following features:

root vegetables soften and become watery;
there is no smell of rot;
forms a white cotton coating on carrots;
spreads at high temperatures and humidity.

Fusarium rot

It is provoked by several types of fungi that spread easily in the soil, as a result of which no vegetables or root crops can be planted there.

Causes of curling carrot leaves

In normal condition, carrot tops are bright green. The rosette has axillary buds; carrot leaves grow on a long petiole.

If a carrot leaf curls, the gardener begins to worry and look for the cause in the development of all kinds of diseases. This is wrong: curliness is the result of exposure to pests.

The presence of the following insects can negatively affect the appearance of leaves, the appearance of curling and the development of root crops:

Carrot aphid. Another name that this pest goes by is psyllid. This is a very small insect that winters near garden areas. With the onset of warmth, the psyllid flies to the carrot beds in order to begin reproduction. Having been soaked in pine needles throughout the winter, the insect needs useful substances. Having laid eggs on the inner surface of carrot leaves, the insect begins to suck all the juices from the root crop. When infected by this pest, the color of carrot leaves remains the same. It is very difficult to notice the parasite in a timely manner.
Carrot aphid. After the appearance of unwanted “neighbors,” the carrot leaves curl, and in the meantime the aphids feed on the juices of the root crop. The insect is especially active during hot, dry periods. If the summer is hot, the gardener should show maximum attention and carefully inspect the leaves of the vegetable for the presence of pests. The appearance of aphids on a plant can be facilitated by ants, which spread them throughout the garden. The carrots grow small, tough and tasteless, and the leaves continue to curl.
Carrot fly. On early shoots, this insect lays its eggs. The most dangerous time is the phase of two true leaves. The larvae penetrate into the root crop and destroy it. The second generation of carrot fly, born in August–September, can cause damage to carrots. The leaves become curled and the root crop suffers.

Ways to combat diseases and pests

It will not be possible to make limp or rotten carrots hard again, but you can protect the vegetable from diseases and pests without much difficulty.

Experts recommend the following measures to counteract the enemies of carrots:

Preventive measures

In order for carrots to be stored for a long time, it is necessary to provide them with the proper conditions, namely:

observe crop rotation;
weeding;
thin out young plants;
plant crops on loose and light soils;
harvest in dry and warm weather;
treat storage facilities with sulfur bombs;
destroy affected root crops;
store indoors at temperatures from 0°C to –2°C and relative humidity 85–90%;
choose rot-resistant varieties.

If you take proper care of your carrots and follow the above recommendations, you can get a good harvest in the fall, which will delight you with long-term preservation.

Dried carrots in the oven: option No. 1

Required ingredients:

carrots - as much as needed.

Cooking process:

Peeled carrots are washed, dried in the wind, cut into strips, rings, halves of rings or quarters and laid out on a non-stick baking sheet lined with parchment. In turn, it is placed in the oven for 25 minutes, preheated to 85 degrees Celsius, while the cabinet door should be slightly open.

Then the carrots are completely cooled near the window and put into the oven again, but the heat temperature is reduced to 60–70 degrees, and the pieces of the root vegetable undergo heat treatment for 40 minutes. During the process, it is advisable to loosen the vegetable several times so that the slices do not stick together.

If the carrots are still wet, then they must be cooled again and dried a third time for an additional 40 minutes at a temperature of 70 degrees Celsius, or brought to a viscous state for the required amount of time.

Then it is cooled again, transferred to a ventilated room, kept there for several days and packaged in glass jars or poured into paper bags. This preparation is stored in a dry, rather dark place in an airtight package. It can be used to prepare first or second courses: soups, sauces, gravy, etc.